Far far away, where the fairies like to play...Visit Hogsback

Hogs back is a magical place in the Eastern Cape, run by people who truly lose themselves in all it has to offer. With Fairy walks and carefully manicured gardens, you can really enjoy a weekend away physically and mentally.

There are two theories that I know of as to how the little town got its name. The commander of fort Michell was called Captain Hogg and it is believed that the village was named after him. Others think it may be because of the three peaks that are near to the town, as they look like a hogs back when you see them from a specific angle.

In South Africa we don’t have snow during Christmas time, but many indulge in a second Christmas during the July winter season, where a “White” July Christmas can be enjoyed amongst friends and family. When I went there, it was late winter, and the snow had already disappeared.

Upon arrival, I had no idea what to expect, and was advised of a few places to go and see, and educated on the numerous possibilities of entertainment. The first place I chose to stay was at Away with the fairies, a place that firstly sounded like my kind of spot and secondly they are very environmentally friendly, respectful and conscious. Me being the nature person I am, I could not resist the sound of it, and was more than excited to climb the scariest tree house, or have a bath in the tub with a view.

When we arrived there, the Hippie vibe surrounding the whole town was very evident, but I really enjoyed it. The break, the escape in the natural rolling hills and forests, with people who truly live freely was exactly what I needed. After setting up tent in what felt like someone’s backyard, we went to have a drink the Wizards sleeve bar. Too excited to explore we kept conversation short and headed straight for the tree house!

It was a short experience at the tree house, because Hogs back boasts scores of hiking trails (and wild forest cows) in which you are exposed to a beautiful indigenous forest, wonderful crystal waterfalls and over 150 bird species. With a map in hand (which never proved to help us, due to our lack of care to sticking to a path) we hiked every single day. Some days we hiked twice a day. Being that it is so beautiful it was easy to hike without thinking of the exercise involved in exploring the beautiful forests.

There are many places to stay in Hogs back, so whether you prefer the rustic environment with camping or a B&B or an inn, there is an option for every type of person, although I do suggest stocking up with your favorite supplies as the grocery store is more of a small convenient store, which is more than sufficient if you are not a fussy type. There are also wonderful restaurants, and I enjoyed two of them during my stay there. One that served chilli chocolate samoosas with a wonderful fireplace was Happy hogs, I sat there and drank great wine while enjoying the awesome food and the cozy flames.

During the days spent there, we visited the St Patricks Church which is situated on the left around a windy road. The garden is full of bright rhododendrons and azaleas. There is also a brass bell (which I couldn’t help but ring) that stands as a memorial for the Reverend Dr Bride Dixon, who was the first woman priest in South Africa as well as the Doctor there. We also went on the fairy walk which is owned by an elderly couple. The gentleman allowed us to watch him in his art studio as he created concrete sculptures of fairies that once painted, and carefully placed, come alive and sparkle with magic.

We also spent a night at Swallowtail, which was wonderful due to the rain, as they had a traveler’s lounge where we could make a fire, enjoy a glass of red wine, and cook our meal. Swallowtail is perfect for campers and caravaner’s alike, with wonderful bathroom facilities and amazing hospitality.

All in all, I would definitely go back there. It is one of those places that captured me, enchanted my spirit and left me dazed in peace when I left. If I had not gone there, I would have put it at the top of my bucket list!

To see more information about Away with the fairies i have added a link below:

http://awaywiththefairies.co.za/

When the laugh of a hyena gives you chills

The spotted hyena is a skillful hunter but also a scavenger. Truly an opportunistic feeder, it selects the easiest and most appealing food, so a herd of buffalo with a few calves are bound to be the perfect targets.

Last night while the camp slept and the birds silenced, the night sky became the perfect assistant to a local spotted hyena clan. The silence of my bush sleep was broken by an ear wrenching gargling scream. I woke up in such a panic and the hairs on both my arms stood to attention  while my heart pounded so loud it was audible.

Being that I live in an area where we are on constant edge and alert because of poachers, this was not the pleasant awakening that I had become  accustomed  to.

Suddenly the nights silence was filled with hyena calls, followed by more blood curdling screams. I could only lie back and pray that whatever they were ripping to pieces was going to be granted a quick death. This was not to be, as the cries  of the chosen midnight snack continued  for another 15 minutes while the hyena calls became louder and more desperate.

Hyenas make a variety of sounds, including wailing calls, howling screams and the famous "laughing" call used to alert other clan members in the surrounding area that dinner is served.

After a sickening  thirty minutes I presumed the fight was over and the hyenas had won, as there were no more screams, just a night full of hyena laughter. I said a prayer and closed my eyes in order to catch a bit of a sleep before I faced what had happened just minutes  before.

This morning when I woke up I went straight to the lodge to find the night guard, who I was certain would be able to give me a few more details regarding the clans evening activities.

He confirmed that the clan that had been hovering around our plains, found the herd of buffalo that were bathing in the watering hole just the afternoon before, and viciously grabbed one  of their young, causing distress  to the mother of the unfortunate calf who was no match for the clan of four.

Usually hyenas chase their pray to exhaustion, but this buffalo calf was bitten and eaten alive within minutes of the attack. The  clan then dragged it's barely alive, but still breathing body into the bush where our guard lost all sighting  of the feast but spent the rest of the evening listening, like me, to a few more screams which slowly subsided and transformed to hyena laughs.

The kill was within meters of my garden, and the sounds are something I will never forget. No bush experience I have had before could have prepared me for that dread I was left with after hearing those screams. All I could do was listen and respect nature and my surroundings for all that it is. And it is, sometimes, more real and raw than anything I have seen of felt before.

So as the sun goes down, I await to see if tonight will bring the same terror as it did just 18 hours ago. Although for now, I'm blessed with a chorus of birds and a honking of Harry the Hippo, but I am in no means ignorant  to the reality behind these beautiful  lands. 

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South African Gypsy http://cherylsmart.blogspot.com/